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Sourdough bread starts with a simple mixture of flour and water left to ferment. Wild yeast and lactic acid bacteria colonize the mixture over several days, creating the culture bakers call a starter. Feeding the starter regularly keeps it active and ready to leaven bread.
Once your starter doubles reliably within a few hours of feeding, it is strong enough to raise a loaf. Most bakers mix a levain the night before baking, combining a spoonful of starter with fresh flour and water so it peaks right when the dough is mixed.
Autolyse is the resting period after flour and water are first combined, before salt and levain are added. Even thirty minutes of autolyse improves extensibility, making the dough easier to stretch and shape later in the process.
Building strength
Instead of kneading, most sourdough methods use stretch-and-folds performed every half hour during bulk fermentation. Each set of folds aligns the gluten network a little more, and by the third or fourth set the dough transforms from a shaggy mass into something smooth and elastic.
Bulk fermentation is where flavor develops. Depending on room temperature, this stage takes four to six hours. The dough should rise thirty to fifty percent and show bubbles along the sides of the container when it is ready to shape.
Shaping creates surface tension that helps the loaf hold its form in the oven. A bench rest between preshaping and final shaping relaxes the gluten just enough to shape without tearing.
Cold retard in the refrigerator overnight slows fermentation and deepens flavor. It also firms the dough, which makes scoring dramatically easier the next morning.
Baking day
A Dutch oven traps steam during the first twenty minutes of the bake, which keeps the crust soft long enough for the loaf to fully expand. Removing the lid for the final twenty minutes lets the crust brown and crisp.
Resist the urge to cut into a hot loaf. The crumb continues to set as the bread cools, and slicing early gives you a gummy texture no matter how well the bake went.
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